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Does someone know where I can get the pinout for the 10 pin header called 'PB/LED' labeled P5 (connector) on the MS-7860 Ver 1.2. (Pro 400 G1 MT)? I have seen manuals that avoid that connector. Note the 'missing or key' pin is exactly in the middle (pin #6). I have seen many diagrams with the key or missing pin at one end. That is not my board.

This is where the cable containing the power switch (not to be confused with power supply) meets the Motherboard. I am replacing a failed Motherboard (three Months out of new Warranty with no physical indications of damage) with an ASRock H97M Pro4. I has every other connector perfectly wired. The only one I will have to 'convert' is P5 (on the very outside edge of the SATA port corner). Thank you for your help.

This system is feedback driven thru Solution and Kudo flags. It's the only means of knowing if you have been served. Please click Accept as Solution, if your problem is solved. To say THANK YOU, press the 'thumbs up symbol' to render a KUDO. You can render both Solution and KUDO. Loaner: Envy Omen Windows 10 Pro 64 bit 7th Gen Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-7700HQ + NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1070M 8GB Discrete Graphics (16GB RAM) 512GB m.2 SSD HP Envy 8 5010 Tablet (2) HP DV7t i7 3160QM 2.3Ghz 8GB Printer -- HP OfficeJet Pro 8620 Legal Custom Asus Z97D, I7-4790k, 16GB RAM, WIN10 Pro 64bit, ZOTAC GTX1080 AMP Extreme 3 fan 8GB RAM, 500GB SSD, Asus PB287 4k monitor, Rosewill Blackhawk case and 750W OCZ.

I appreciate your quick response. Unfortunately that pinout is not my board. On mine the blank pin is at the 6 position. This one has it at 10. Also I think the two that make up the power switch are 8 and 10. And thanks for the warning about Windows 10 license.

I'm sure I can call Microsoft and get that fixed. I've done that for customers even since Windows 10 and they are always very helpful. I didn't want to but I am just going to have to break out my continuity meter and tace the pinout. Strange that only my Motherboard has that pinout missing? I've found it for many others. Just pinned it out (the hard way).

For anyone else that might have this Motherboard. Here is the correct pinout: (1) HDD LED+ (3) HDD LED- (5) Pwr switch (7) Pwr switch (9) n/c (2) Power LED+ (4) Power LED- (6) blank (8) jump (10) jump ________/ n/c (has a hole with no wire) blank (has hole covered) The key so you can't plug it in wrong. Pins 8 and 10 are a jumper or ' dead short' (maybe a 'case tamper' switch bypassed?) I recommend you cut the jumper as it probably won't be needed on your generic replacement Motherboard! Colors (may vary) HDD LED+(1)=( green) Power LED+(2)=( red) HDD LED-(3) =( white) Power LED- (4)=( black) Power switch(5,7) =( both white) jumper to cut(8,10)=( black) The two 'Power LED' ( whites) are interchangeable but the HDD LED- ( white) is not so be careful here and the jumper to be cut (removed) is black and should not be confused with the Power LED- I apologize if I gave too much info here, but it might be helpful for a novice in computer wiring. This system is feedback driven thru Solution and Kudo flags. It's the only means of knowing if you have been served.

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32-bit Please click Accept as Solution, if your problem is solved. To say THANK YOU, press the 'thumbs up symbol' to render a KUDO.

You can render both Solution and KUDO. Loaner: Envy Omen Windows 10 Pro 64 bit 7th Gen Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-7700HQ + NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1070M 8GB Discrete Graphics (16GB RAM) 512GB m.2 SSD HP Envy 8 5010 Tablet (2) HP DV7t i7 3160QM 2.3Ghz 8GB Printer -- HP OfficeJet Pro 8620 Legal Custom Asus Z97D, I7-4790k, 16GB RAM, WIN10 Pro 64bit, ZOTAC GTX1080 AMP Extreme 3 fan 8GB RAM, 500GB SSD, Asus PB287 4k monitor, Rosewill Blackhawk case and 750W OCZ.